Thank You Spain

Rita and I can't believe the Spain odyssey has ended as we were not sure it would ever begin.  We originally booked our trip to start last September but a week before we were to depart Rita fell off her bike and broke her shoulder.  We cancelled the trip (we did not have cancellation insurance and so we lost most of our deposits on our accommodation and train travel as well as all of our flight costs). However, we regrouped as Rita's shoulder mended and decided to revitalize our trip.  We are very happy that we did.  Spain is a wonderfully diverse country.  Not only the different landscapes, cultures and languages but the cities and towns we visited were all impacted by their past in different ways.  This made it a very interesting and varied travel adventure.  The only thing that seemed to remain constant, was the Spanish love affair with cured ham (Jamon).  Their are shops in every city, town and village selling multiple varieties of cured ham from a few Euros to hundreds of Euros a kilo; based on the breed of pig, what it was fed, how long it was aged and where it was stored.  For outsiders it is as confusing as trying to choose a bottle of local wine.  But best off all, it was the people we came across that helped to make the trip so special. They were very open, friendly, happy folks who were willing to help strangers even when they did not understand English.  For us Spain was not a vacation but an education and we loved her for it.  Gracias Espana.
         

Views of San Sebastian's La Concha Bay

We loved the view from our apartment and I took loads of pictures during different times of the day. Here are my favorites.

Sunrise

Morning Rain Storm

Sun Setting After Rain Storm

 Evening

Midnight 

San Sebastian and Mount Iguado

We woke up to more sunshine, so we had our breakfast on the deck before heading up to the top of Mount Igueldo to check out the views.  It was only a 15 minute walk up the road and what we found there was not what we were expecting.  A small amusement park, an extinct lighthouse, a hotel and a funicular.  After checking out the amazing views and the cheesy amusement attractions we took the wonderful funicular down to the beach and walked along the promenade into the shopping district. What was supposed to be some retail therapy for Rita ended up being a shopping spree for me!!!! After all that shopping we were starving, so we searched and found a recommended tapas restaurant in old town for a very delicious lunch before hiking back up to our apartment for a relaxing evening.

Woke up at around 6:30 to pee and saw this gorgeous sunrise coming over Mount Urgull and the 28.5 meter (94 ft) statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  After emptying my bladder, I grabbed the camera and took the photo (priorities).

Enjoying a delicious muesli, fruit and yogurt breakfast on our deck on another beautiful day

On the way up to the top of Mount Igueldo (a large hill really at 172 m (565 ft) above sea level) you can see the tower built in 1778 as a marine lighthouse surrounded by some of the amusement rides.

From the Mount Igueldo viewpoint, you can see the rugged coastline and rougher Atlantic Ocean away from protected La Concha Bay.

A panoramic view of the Pyranees Mountains, San Sebastian, La Concha & Ondarreta beaches, La Concha Bay and Santa Clara Island from one of the Mount Igueldo viewpoints.

Rita getting in one of the two wooden carriages of the 1912 built Funicular (third oldest in Spain) before we take the 320 m (1,050 ft,) ride to the bottom of Mount Igueldo.

After getting off the Funicular we walked along the two mile (3 km) Promenade that winds its way around the beaches and headed for downtown to do some shopping.  La Concha Beach is at low tide allowing lots of people to walk on the packed sand

Looking back from the promenade onto Ondarreta Beach, which is used mostly for beach sports.  If you look closely at the hills in the background you can see a white house at the bottom of the high point, middle left.  This is where we are staying.

Ganbara is a Michelin Guide restaurant in old town that was recommended by the owners of our apartment.  It is very small, has no seats and you stand at one of two counters or outside. You choose from a selection of cold plates on the counter and/or order hot tapas from a menu.  We did both and along with a glass of crisp, dry Spanish white wine enjoyed every morsel.  The highlight was a selection of three types of mushrooms, sauteed in Spanish olive oil and garlic, with a soft egg yolk (no egg white) sitting on top and served with chunks of baguette on the side.  Yuuummmy:)  






   

Rita Speaks Two

Rita taking a break on the tiled serpentine bench at Gaudi's Park Guell in Barcelona 

I cannot believe we have reached the final days of our Spain tour after covering a big (no surprise, Spain is the third largest country in Europe) part of this beautiful country. Starting off in Barcelona, Catalonia on the Mediterranean coast and finishing off 35 days later in San Sebastian, Basque Country on the Atlantic coast.  Spain is made up of 17 autonomous regions, we managed to visit and learn about eight of them: Catalonia, Madrid (as well as being the capital of Spain, it is also an autonomous region), Castilla, Andalucía, Castilla Y Leon, Galicia, Navarra and Basque Country.

Spain's topography is extremely varied.  During one day of driving from Granada to Segovia we saw nothing but olive trees for hours. On another longer leg from Salamanca to Santiago de Compostela, it was pretty much rough countryside, very little in terms of farming, just rocky outcroppings with very little vegetation. Lastly in Basque Country, beautiful rolling, green hills and mountains which we both loved.  But Geoff kept reminding me that most of Spain's rainfall happens in this region😊. 

Occasionally, language has been a bit of a challenge–although most people, especially in the bigger tourist centers, do speak English, however we did come across “No Ingles” a few times.  Smiles and hand gestures on both sides usually got the message across.  Interesting how many different “official” languages are spoken in Spain.  Spanish (Castilian) is the national language and is spoken everywhere with Catalan (spoken by 17% of the population), Galician (7%), Basque (2%) and in those regions, the signs are in both “official” languages. We found it especially hard to read and pronounce words in the Basque Country.

Because we were traveling to several small medieval towns and villages, we decide to rent the smallest car possible. Not only are the roads extremely narrow, parking is a challenge as well. Our little KIA with stick shift (note to self, next time automatic!!) performed well, and according to Geoff was easy to drive. We kept wondering how we navigated before GPS? Thanks to Sally, she guided us through endless “roundabouts”, on and off Motorways and even advised our estimated arrival time, pee breaks not included! 

The Cathedrals, Churches and Alcazars were amazing, a bit overwhelming for me at times. When I was looking for some “retail therapy” all shops were closed for siesta (2-5 pm).  Geoff, well done on the time management😞. I tried to be more patient while Geoff took hundreds of pictures (really) sometimes we had to visit the same place twice because the light (of course the light) had changed. I don’t SEE what Geoff sees when he takes the photos but I like the results.

It was a busy trip, including scheduled tours, a lot of sightseeing and moving around by train and car. We stayed in six beautiful apartments and six amazing Paradore hotels. Not surprising then, when reaching our final  destination in San Sebastian, an amazing apartment with a spectacular view, we didn’t want to move.  We did not go out for dinner once but enjoyed the "million-dollar" view from our deck with wine and cava  supplied from our landlords winery – a real treat.  It was a good opportunity to start making plans for our next adventure.  No rest for Blogger Boy!!!

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Bilbao is only an hours drive from San Sebastion and so we had to make the effort to see one of the most remarkable buildings of our time.  The Guggenheim Museum was designed by Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry and completed in 1997.  The Museum is frequently named as one of the most important works completed since 1980 among architectural experts. It is a rarity to find a work of contemporary architecture that is admired by critics, academics and  the general public but the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao has achieved this remarkable feat.

In 1991, the Basque Government offered to fund a Guggenheim Museum to be built in Bilbao's decrepit port district as it wanted to revitalize the area.  By creating an exceptional anchor building it hoped to attract new development and businesses to revitalize the area into a people friendly neighborhood.  I am sure they have succeeded beyond their wildest expectations.  The offer from the Basque Government was to cover construction costs in US dollars up to $100 million, to create a $50 million acquisition fund, pay a one-time $20 million fee and to subsidize the museums $12 million annual budget.  In exchange, the Guggenheim would manage the museum, rotate parts of its permanent collection through the Bilbao Museum and organize temporary exhibitions.

Amazingly, the construction costs came in under budget at $89 million.  In the first three years of operation over four million tourists visited the museum generating about 500 million Euros in economic activity.  The regional council estimates it collected 100 million Euros in taxes, which more than covered the building costs.

We were very lucky and found a parking spot on the other side of the Nervion River and had the best views of the Guggenheim before crossing a foot bridge to get to the museum entrance.  It was overcast when we got out of the car and headed along the pedestrian walkway but the titanium tiles on the museum still shimmered like fish scales in the flat light. It was amazing to see up close and its size really takes you by surprise.  However, with all its random curves you seem to focus on specific sections of the building rather than its whole, making it seem quite intimate .   Once inside however, the effect is vastly different as the space seems to overwhelm you as well as some of the art on display.  It also felt a bit cold and impersonal.  With nineteen galleries covering 32,500 sq. meters (350,000 sq. ft) over three floors, there is definitely a lot of territory to cover.    

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao from the footbridge crossing over the Nervion River.  The museum is made of limestone, glass and titanium with a structure of interconnecting curves.  You can see the four meter (13 ft),sculpture made of 73 reflective spheres called "Tall Tree and the Eye" by Anish Kapoor front left.

Unfortunately, no photos are allowed to be taken in the galleries.  Small section of the interior with its unique design and openness.

 Rita inside one of the massive metal coils of Richard Serra's "Matter of Time" sculpture

 A beautiful bouquet of colored chrome Tulips by Jeff Koons is displayed on the riverside terrace

After three hours of walking around the Guggenheim, we needed a rest.  The most interesting pieces for us were the temporary Paris exhibition of impressionism artworks (including Monet and Toulouse-Lautrec), their Jackson Pollock pieces, the massive Matter of Time sculptures and Jeff Koons Tulips.  Unfortunately, his famous 13 meter (42 ft) West Highland Terrier living sculpture (Puppy) with its 60,000 plants and flowers was under wraps as they were installing new foliage.
  

The Guggenheim from across the Nervion River in the sunshine with the 9 meter (30 ft) spider sculpture called Maman (Mommy) by Louise Bourgeois located on the left.

San Sebastian

We left Olite and Pamplona under sunny skies and warm temperatures and thankfully, they followed us all the way to our last stop in Spain, San Sebastian.    A little history.  In 1181, San Sebastian was given a charter to officially become a town and in 1265 permission was granted to become a sea port.  In 1489 fire destroyed most of the town and it was rebuilt.  In 1813 during the Peninsula war, British and Portuguese troops attached the town and burnt it to the ground.  It was rebuilt on the same spot and with virtually the same layout and design.  In 1863, the defensive walls were demolished and expansion of the city began in earnest.  San Sebastian may not have a medieval town to wander through but what it does have is beautiful sandy beaches.  We are here for five days, staying in an apartment that is situated on a steep hillside (Monte Igueldo) about a 20 minute walk down to the city and its beaches.

This is the WOW view from our deck showing La Concha Bay and its two miles of sandy beaches

The inside of our lovely and well equipped apartment.  Two bedrooms and two bathrooms are further down the hallway.  The large windows let in the light and the magnificent view.

After unpacking we had tea and a lite lunch on our deck while enjoying the view before walking into town to explore 

Miramar Palace and its gardens overlooks La Concha Bay and was built in 1893 on the orders of Maria Christina of Austria, wife of King Alphonso X111.  She moved the Royal Courts summer location to San Sebastian to take sea baths on the orders of her Doctor.  In 1972 King Juan Carlos sold the property to the city and it is now a museum and a summer college.

Sunbathers on La Concha Beach at low tide

In 1867 this lovely building opened as a casino.  Today it is San Sebastian's City Hall

Olite

We did not stay in Pamplona but in a small medieval town about a 30 minute drive away at the Parador de Olite.  Olite has changed little since the Middle Ages and still has remnants of its Roman towers and walls as well as its new walls built in the 15th century.  It also has one of the most outstanding castle-palace buildings in the region.  The Royal Palace was built by Charles lll in 1424 and it became his favorite palace and made it the Royal Court of the Kingdom of Navarro. Today Olite's 4,000 inhabitants rely mainly on tourism and viticulture for employment.
 

 The spectacular royal palace of Olite was built in 1424.

The state owned Parador hotel chain renovated the original palace built in the 13th century.  With its two lookout towers and thick stone walls it was built to fulfill a military function and was located on the former Roman site.  The castle-palace was built and used by Navarro monarchs and was known as the palace of the King of Navarro until the new one was built.  After the new palace was completed, the old palace would have then been used as stables, kitchens and storage for the King. 

The Roman Chapitel tower was originally a goods control point for Olite.  Today it accesses the newer medieval part of town from the original part of town

  Plaza de Carlos lll is situated between the inner Roman wall and the outer medieval wall.  The 15th century Royal Palace is in the background.

One of the newer medieval streets constructed in the 15th century 

Pamplona

Pamplona is the historic capital of Navarre and was founded in 75 BC by the Roman General Pompey (Pamplona in Spanish).  By the middle ages it was not a proper town but a fortress.  Starting in the 11th century things started to improve due to the popularity of the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and Pamplona being used as a resting place.  Today Pamplona is famous for its annual running of the bulls festival every July but it offers much more than that.  Its fortified walls, obligatory Cathedral, colorful buildings along narrow lanes, odd traditions and rich history make it a pleasure to explore and explore we did over an afternoon and morning When we arrived from Lerma, the weather was cool and overcast but we could see breaks of blue sky and hoped for the best.  However, our luck ran out a couple of hours later and we headed back to our car with both our spirits and clothes dampened.  The next morning brought sunshine and so we decided to go back and get some better pictures.  We also bumped into a couple of fun festivals going on in old town which was a pleasant and unexpected surprise.

 Pamplona's imposing five kilometers (3 miles) of city walls were started in 1569 as a defense against a suspected attack from the Franks (France) and are still 80% intact.

 Rita standing at Puerta de Francia (French Gate), with drawbridge down) where Camino Pilgrims enter Pamplona on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

 In the center of the city is the "Running of the Bulls" statue, built in 2007, showing 6 Bulls, 2 steers and 10 runners (all men and no females for some unknown reason).

The skinny and twisting Calle Curia (Curia street) showcases the tall houses and narrow streets in old town.  Due to Pamplona being a walled city right up to 1923, space was at a premium.  It's wonderful how the owners used different colors to make the streets look vibrant even when the sun does not shine.
 

 Pamplona's beautiful City Hall was built in 1423 and today its balconies are full of opera singers giving free performances in celebration of  European Opera Day.  It was a thrilling experience.
  

 A few blocks away we came upon the Giants and Big Heads parade (English translation).  The festival is more than 150 years old and the giants are about 4 meters (13 ft) high carried by dancers inside a wooden structure.  They stroll and twirl through the streets as bands from different neighborhoods play traditional music, ending up in a plaza where everyone joins in.
 

 Once the giants and musicians are in the square and set up in their neighborhood sections, the music starts up again, dancers appear in traditional Basque costumes and begin their traditional folk dances.  A very fun and kid friendly event. 

    

Lerma

We are staying about a 20 minute drive outside of Burgos in a small medieval town called Lerma at another Parador Hotel.  It was a wonderful stay except for the weather (more wind and rain) and our dinner (very tough steaks) at the hotel.

 The Arch of Carcel is the medieval entry gate into Lerma.  The upper body was added in 1610 and used as a prison.  We entered through the gate to our hotel.

Lerma's two-way main street that we drove up to get to our hotel

The Parador Lerma, built in 1617 was originally the Ducal Palace for the Duke of Lerma.  Our lovely room, with it's "matrimonial bed", is located in the top of the left hand tower.   

The beautiful courtyard has been covered with an opaque roof and is now a lounge area for guests to read, have a drink or just relax.

 In between the rain showers we went and explored this very small medieval town.  The Church of San Pedro, built at the beginning of the 17th century.

A medieval lane with stone houses in Lerma

Burgos

It was still raining and cool when we left Leon for Burgos.  Two hours later we arrived to a sunny and warm Burgos but dark clouds were looming all around us.  We parked the car and headed into the old town to explore, rain gear packed in the backpack.  Just as well, the rain came down just after we entered the old town.  We ran to the Cathedral to buy tickets to tour the interior and hoped the rain would stop by the time we had finished.

Burgos was founded in 884 during the Christian drive to remove the Moors from Spain and became part of the fortifications to hold onto the reclaimed lands. Burgos is the historic capitol of Castile and is currently the capitol of the province of Burgos.  It is also a major stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.  Burgos has had a long history of conflict with the Moors, with other regions within Spain, Napoleonic France, the Spanish Succession and the Spanish Civil War.  Today, the only conflict is between tourists vying for tables at one of the Plaza del Ray cafes.  

We entered medieval Burgos through the 14th century Virgin Mary's Gate that was created as the official entrance to the city for Emperor Charles V.

The first stone for the Cathedral of Saint Mary was laid in 1221 and was finished in 1795. The Gothic style Cathedral we see today was completed in 1557 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the only Spanish Cathedral earning this accreditation on its own and not in conjunction with its city).  It looks impressive on the outside with its frilly spires but the interior is what makes it truly unique.

The 16th century Escalera Dorada (Golden Stairs) was inspired by the Italian Renaissance.  The reason for the stairs is to access the Puerta de la Coroneria (Door of the Apostles) built in 1257. When constructing an extension of the Cathedral they expanded into the side of a hill creating an eight foot drop to the floor.  Originally, a ladder was used to gain access.  In 1519, the Bishop commissioned an Italian architect to replace the ladder.  In 1523, the Golden Staircase was completed.  It became so famous that architects copied the staircase into their buildings, including the Paris Opera House.  The door was permanently closed in the 18th century due to street noise entering the Cathedral and so the golden staircase has no practical use today but still looks magnificent.  

 This is the best of the Cathedrals 19 chapels, which were all built and paid for by wealthy patrons or bishops wishing to be interred here.  The Chapel of the High Constable has its own gold leafed alter, two side naves, choir stalls, a pipe organ, two religious painting by an apprentice of Leonardo da Vinci and a protective metal gate that is considered a masterpiece in itself .  It's been called a "Cathedral within the Cathedral".  A high constable is a knight who won a crown in battle for his king or queen, the highest honor in the Middle Ages.  But it was his wife that commissioned the chapel in the late 15th century (both are entombed here below their statues in the lower middle),

The richly gilded High Alter was consecrated in 1580 and designed during the Renaissance period.

The Greater Sacristy is a rectangular room with a domed roof.  The original room dates from earlier times but the latest remodeling was done in the 18th century and is in rococo baroque style.  This style seeks movement through scenery and  form, however the walls and dome are covered and this decorative abundance is called "horro vacui" or fear of emptiness.  The sight overwhelms the senses but stunningly beautiful, especially the dome.

Rita, very happy that the rain has stopped, walking along the riverside promenade which is lined with knobby plane trees