Saturday, May 20, 2017

Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

Bilbao is only an hours drive from San Sebastion and so we had to make the effort to see one of the most remarkable buildings of our time.  The Guggenheim Museum was designed by Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry and completed in 1997.  The Museum is frequently named as one of the most important works completed since 1980 among architectural experts. It is a rarity to find a work of contemporary architecture that is admired by critics, academics and  the general public but the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao has achieved this remarkable feat.

In 1991, the Basque Government offered to fund a Guggenheim Museum to be built in Bilbao's decrepit port district as it wanted to revitalize the area.  By creating an exceptional anchor building it hoped to attract new development and businesses to revitalize the area into a people friendly neighborhood.  I am sure they have succeeded beyond their wildest expectations.  The offer from the Basque Government was to cover construction costs in US dollars up to $100 million, to create a $50 million acquisition fund, pay a one-time $20 million fee and to subsidize the museums $12 million annual budget.  In exchange, the Guggenheim would manage the museum, rotate parts of its permanent collection through the Bilbao Museum and organize temporary exhibitions.

Amazingly, the construction costs came in under budget at $89 million.  In the first three years of operation over four million tourists visited the museum generating about 500 million Euros in economic activity.  The regional council estimates it collected 100 million Euros in taxes, which more than covered the building costs.

We were very lucky and found a parking spot on the other side of the Nervion River and had the best views of the Guggenheim before crossing a foot bridge to get to the museum entrance.  It was overcast when we got out of the car and headed along the pedestrian walkway but the titanium tiles on the museum still shimmered like fish scales in the flat light. It was amazing to see up close and its size really takes you by surprise.  However, with all its random curves you seem to focus on specific sections of the building rather than its whole, making it seem quite intimate .   Once inside however, the effect is vastly different as the space seems to overwhelm you as well as some of the art on display.  It also felt a bit cold and impersonal.  With nineteen galleries covering 32,500 sq. meters (350,000 sq. ft) over three floors, there is definitely a lot of territory to cover.    

The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao from the footbridge crossing over the Nervion River.  The museum is made of limestone, glass and titanium with a structure of interconnecting curves.  You can see the four meter (13 ft),sculpture made of 73 reflective spheres called "Tall Tree and the Eye" by Anish Kapoor front left.

Unfortunately, no photos are allowed to be taken in the galleries.  Small section of the interior with its unique design and openness.

 Rita inside one of the massive metal coils of Richard Serra's "Matter of Time" sculpture

 A beautiful bouquet of colored chrome Tulips by Jeff Koons is displayed on the riverside terrace


After three hours of walking around the Guggenheim, we needed a rest.  The most interesting pieces for us were the temporary Paris exhibition of impressionism artworks (including Monet and Toulouse-Lautrec), their Jackson Pollock pieces, the massive Matter of Time sculptures and Jeff Koons Tulips.  Unfortunately, his famous 13 meter (42 ft) West Highland Terrier living sculpture (Puppy) with its 60,000 plants and flowers was under wraps as they were installing new foliage.
  
The Guggenheim from across the Nervion River in the sunshine with the 9 meter (30 ft) spider sculpture called Maman (Mommy) by Louise Bourgeois located on the left.

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