Burgos

It was still raining and cool when we left Leon for Burgos.  Two hours later we arrived to a sunny and warm Burgos but dark clouds were looming all around us.  We parked the car and headed into the old town to explore, rain gear packed in the backpack.  Just as well, the rain came down just after we entered the old town.  We ran to the Cathedral to buy tickets to tour the interior and hoped the rain would stop by the time we had finished.

Burgos was founded in 884 during the Christian drive to remove the Moors from Spain and became part of the fortifications to hold onto the reclaimed lands. Burgos is the historic capitol of Castile and is currently the capitol of the province of Burgos.  It is also a major stop for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.  Burgos has had a long history of conflict with the Moors, with other regions within Spain, Napoleonic France, the Spanish Succession and the Spanish Civil War.  Today, the only conflict is between tourists vying for tables at one of the Plaza del Ray cafes.  

We entered medieval Burgos through the 14th century Virgin Mary's Gate that was created as the official entrance to the city for Emperor Charles V.

The first stone for the Cathedral of Saint Mary was laid in 1221 and was finished in 1795. The Gothic style Cathedral we see today was completed in 1557 and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (the only Spanish Cathedral earning this accreditation on its own and not in conjunction with its city).  It looks impressive on the outside with its frilly spires but the interior is what makes it truly unique.

The 16th century Escalera Dorada (Golden Stairs) was inspired by the Italian Renaissance.  The reason for the stairs is to access the Puerta de la Coroneria (Door of the Apostles) built in 1257. When constructing an extension of the Cathedral they expanded into the side of a hill creating an eight foot drop to the floor.  Originally, a ladder was used to gain access.  In 1519, the Bishop commissioned an Italian architect to replace the ladder.  In 1523, the Golden Staircase was completed.  It became so famous that architects copied the staircase into their buildings, including the Paris Opera House.  The door was permanently closed in the 18th century due to street noise entering the Cathedral and so the golden staircase has no practical use today but still looks magnificent.  

 This is the best of the Cathedrals 19 chapels, which were all built and paid for by wealthy patrons or bishops wishing to be interred here.  The Chapel of the High Constable has its own gold leafed alter, two side naves, choir stalls, a pipe organ, two religious painting by an apprentice of Leonardo da Vinci and a protective metal gate that is considered a masterpiece in itself .  It's been called a "Cathedral within the Cathedral".  A high constable is a knight who won a crown in battle for his king or queen, the highest honor in the Middle Ages.  But it was his wife that commissioned the chapel in the late 15th century (both are entombed here below their statues in the lower middle),

The richly gilded High Alter was consecrated in 1580 and designed during the Renaissance period.

The Greater Sacristy is a rectangular room with a domed roof.  The original room dates from earlier times but the latest remodeling was done in the 18th century and is in rococo baroque style.  This style seeks movement through scenery and  form, however the walls and dome are covered and this decorative abundance is called "horro vacui" or fear of emptiness.  The sight overwhelms the senses but stunningly beautiful, especially the dome.

Rita, very happy that the rain has stopped, walking along the riverside promenade which is lined with knobby plane trees